December 25, 2006
Meknes

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Meknes was the first city we had time to really explore. Meknes foundations are from the 10th century. It became an "imperial city" in 1672 when the sultan Moulay Ismail added gates, ramparts, mosques and palaces.

We arrived in Meknes in the morning, checking in to the Ibis hotel. Ibis became our staple hotel - clean, pretty cheap and predictable - qualities sometimes missing from other Moroccan hotels. We walk around the town and became quite lost. Navigation is next to impossible without street signs. Very few of the intersections meet at right angles. We finally stumble upon the amazing Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail himself! This helps us find the medina - the old part of the town with many shops. We sit in the central plaza, shop around and have a fabulous dinner.

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This shot from outside the town wall gives a sense of how the houses and streets are squeezed on top of each other. It makes it quite easy to get lost. NO STREET SIGNS - anywhere in Morocco!
Once inside the medina, we find ourselves overshadowed by century old buildings. Narrow lanes and very tall walls can make the experience almost claustrophobic. This dark doorway leads us to many gloomy dead-end alleys. It takes about 45 minutes to get back to this point.
There are shops pretty much everywhere - including a place where you can pre-order sheeps! These sheep are foreshadowing for our later adventures.
We see many people in many places sitting and observing. Everywhere - in the city, along the road, in the villages, etc. Sitting is totally the IN thing to do.
We stumble on the Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail. Beautifully carved doors & door frames are a common sight. Decorated doors with specific symbols protect the home by keeping spirits away.
Intricate tilework is everywhere! The 8-pointed star is a common symbol that you see embedded in everything - including sidewalks, etc. The star is generally associated with Islam. We also see a lot of 5-pointed stars - this is associated with the flag of Morocco.
Pretty picture capturing the cloudless blue Moroccan sky contrasting with the ubiquitous yellow walls.
After more scouting, we find the medina. A medina is typically the older part of the town. It has a square where people perform some type of service or show and ask for money. In this case, a group of people are doing acrobatics.
We join the "sitting" tradition and take our first mint tea. This is the national drink. Mint tea is often called Berber Whiskey, since most Moroccans do not drink alcohol.

Notice a few things in this picture:

  • Man on the left is wearing a Berber cloak (Justin got one). The cloaks can be in any color-brown, green, red.
  • Horses and donkeys are common modes of transportation
  • The small cart is used everywhere to transport items in the medina. Cars can not fit in the narrow alleys.
  • The walls enclose the medina and sometimes the entire town.
  • You can buy just about anything in the medina, including fresh chickens. When I say fresh, I mean *really* fresh. They weigh 'em, kill 'em, de-feather them and hand them to you.
    Also for sale are fresh dates and prunes.
    ... and goat heads!
    ... and olives, lots and lots of olives!

    STORY:
    As we walked in the medina, a "friend" talked to us. He told us he "wasn't a guide" and "didn't want any money." He claimed that he was a psychology student (note: we encountered the exact same story in Thailand!)

    He took us around to a "professor" who was going to teach us about rugs. Of course, when we said "enough", he asked for money. All of a sudden, a man with a black leather jacket came along and started yelling at our "friend" in Arabic. Someone explained that the man was a tourist cop.

    We had dinner at the Restaurant Zitouna (phone - 055-530281). It took us at least 45 minutes to find the restaurant. We were the only guests in what used to be a "palace" (house). The center of the house is a covered courtyard. We had our first exposure to the tajine - the most common staple of Moroccan cuisine. Although tajines are quite good - their flavor is subtle and hearty, not spicy.

    The service was performed by two men - the owner and another man, probably a family member. It was explained that all the cooking was done by the women. I don't recall ever seeing a waitress in Moroccan restaurants - all service is performed by men.

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